Chapter 1 - Tutorial
Submitted September 7, 2007 Updated September 7, 2007 Status Complete | I'm self learned, so I doubt this info is infallible- but it works for me. Unfortunately, i cannon show it working for my cause my bloody scanner sucks and removes all depth by zapping the dark spots. So meh...
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Chapter 1 - Tutorial
Chapter 1 - Tutorial
Ah, shading is quite simple actually. Fundamentally, all shading amounts to is light on one side (facing the light source) and dark on the other (where the light source cannon reach. Wrinkles in clothing, tufts of air, things like that). In essence, that’s all shading is. Apply more pressure to create deep spots in flowing cloths, less to create high spots. It get difficult understating and anticipating how the surface you wish to convey will react under light from a specific direction. Study other drawings and pictures. Find something you like and copy it as exactly as possible. Shade, form, detail, every thing. Study is as closely and completely as possible, every square millimeter. Draw its line structure only. Step back and make sure the proportions are precise- that the distance from any point to another is scale to what your doing a study of.
If you want more detail in your pictures, I would recommend using a sharp pencil. Most art professors would have me strung by my entrails from the public square for saying this, but I strongly recommend using mechanical pencils. I personally use a 0.5 Zebra. The smaller diameter graphite you can get the better. It means you can fit the point into smaller places and hence, create more details in any given picture. It takes some time to get used to it, but with practice, you can do an entire picture down to the last detail with a .5 mm pencil and a few different types of erasers (Keeded, Art gum ect.). With shading you really have to visualize something three dimensionally to catch its lighting properties. Kneeded erasers are handy. Should be able to find them at Office Max or Office Depot. Their like gray clay. They are sticky- so you shape them and dab them on the paper to pull up the graphite. You can shape them into a fine chisel point if you want to do some delicate highlighting.
Also, the drawings I consider final are one of several in a long line of templates. I create a rough sketch first- laying out the design, proportions, all that good stuff. When that’s done and I have it as flawless, I darken the lines that I want to use to outline the final picture. I trace it darkly onto a clean piece of paper- making a clean final template. I use this template to check all proportions and make sure every thing is exact. Then I trace this one lightly onto yet another piece of paper, making sure its clean and the lines are barely visible. Shade this one. Try and match the darkness as closely as possible. Scan the picture into the computer and convert it to grayscale if you can. When you get done shading, place them side by side to make sure the hue (darkness) matches.
If you mess up and cant go back, all hope is not lost- you still have the templates. By the time I’m done I can burn though six or more pieces of paper in the process by trying out different poses, designs, and the like. Now, I have no education in art, I had to teach myself- so I would double check with some one who has a formal education. Because of my lack of knowledge myself, this is really all the advice I can provide. I hope it serves you well. Good luck mate.
If you want more detail in your pictures, I would recommend using a sharp pencil. Most art professors would have me strung by my entrails from the public square for saying this, but I strongly recommend using mechanical pencils. I personally use a 0.5 Zebra. The smaller diameter graphite you can get the better. It means you can fit the point into smaller places and hence, create more details in any given picture. It takes some time to get used to it, but with practice, you can do an entire picture down to the last detail with a .5 mm pencil and a few different types of erasers (Keeded, Art gum ect.). With shading you really have to visualize something three dimensionally to catch its lighting properties. Kneeded erasers are handy. Should be able to find them at Office Max or Office Depot. Their like gray clay. They are sticky- so you shape them and dab them on the paper to pull up the graphite. You can shape them into a fine chisel point if you want to do some delicate highlighting.
Also, the drawings I consider final are one of several in a long line of templates. I create a rough sketch first- laying out the design, proportions, all that good stuff. When that’s done and I have it as flawless, I darken the lines that I want to use to outline the final picture. I trace it darkly onto a clean piece of paper- making a clean final template. I use this template to check all proportions and make sure every thing is exact. Then I trace this one lightly onto yet another piece of paper, making sure its clean and the lines are barely visible. Shade this one. Try and match the darkness as closely as possible. Scan the picture into the computer and convert it to grayscale if you can. When you get done shading, place them side by side to make sure the hue (darkness) matches.
If you mess up and cant go back, all hope is not lost- you still have the templates. By the time I’m done I can burn though six or more pieces of paper in the process by trying out different poses, designs, and the like. Now, I have no education in art, I had to teach myself- so I would double check with some one who has a formal education. Because of my lack of knowledge myself, this is really all the advice I can provide. I hope it serves you well. Good luck mate.
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luckylace222 on September 7, 2007, 10:23:53 AM
luckylace222 on
:D THAT'S NICE!!!!! I like this! Thank-you so much for sharing your knowledge! xD